My in-laws graciously treated Alasdair and I to a wee holiday to Belfast. I have never been, and was super excited. Alasdair's father is technically retired, but works part-time with the ferry at the nearby port, so our travel across the sea was free.
The weather was dreary and I did a bit of crochet. Nothing major. We had access to the first-class area with unlimited snacks and drinks. Luxurious! The in-laws had some wine and I detoxed on peppermint tea.
After a few missed turns here and there, we arrived at our apartment. This was our view, without any filters or alterations:
The next morning, we grabbed a black cab for a one-on-one tour of the troubled areas.
Please note that since I will be bringing-up religion, I was raised Catholic and the black cab driver was Catholic. However, my husband and his family are Protestants. I am aiming to make this post as unbiased as possible.
Belfast has experienced violence over a period of around 30 years. Streets have been divided by religious and cultural identity. The divide is Protestants, identifying as British, who strive to remain loyal to the Monarchy vs. Catholics, identifying as Irish, who strive for a united Ireland. It is a sensitive topic, even today. The black cab tour was able to bring me places that both my own religion, and nationality, would have previously denied me access, even just 15 years ago.
Shankill Road is Protestant territory. Here we saw Union flags, Scottish Saltires, Rangers Football Club flags, as well as an Israeli flag (Catholics tend to support Palestine, here in NI). Murals here depicted great war heros/legands, who had killed for their fight.
If anyone wants the full and original images before, please let me know. I will happily share.
Maybe it was hearing that the poppy circle on the top left symbolized the Catholics killed by the man in the middle, or maybe it was the gun in the center photo that follows you no matter what you angle you turn, or perhaps it was the bullet-proof glass in the windows. Regardless what it was, as I stood there, there was a pressure on my chest that made it hard to breath. I'm personally in a group photo that I will not post, because trust me, I am not a happy camper.
The tention was alleviated when we reached the wall separating the two war zones. It has been named a 'Peace Wall', decorated with graffiti and petrol-bomb stains.
I left a piece of myself in the history. Can you find me?
The tour guide told us that since the walls are so high, the Protestant side has, on occasion, hit golf balls over to shatter windows. The houses on the Catholic side of Bombay Road are very close to the wall. To get there, you must cross through a gate. The gate closes at 7pm every night, to this day. It is monitored by cameras and is electronic. When the gate has been left open, violence has occurred.
This is what I found on the other side:
As with the other photo grid, if anyone would like to see the original photos, feel free to reach out to me.
There were no flags, but I did see Celtic Football Club shamrocks in an iron gate. Here, there were a lot of murals with images of important leaders from around the world, who have faught injustices. Martyrs. There was a marble wall with names, like what you would find in a grave yard. The black cab driver showed me rubber bullets used to kill, not stun. The faces who had been killed were on a banner. Here, those who had died were celebrated. It was easy to forget that their hands are not clean, either.
The black cab driver then brought us to the Titanic Museum. It is the boat-looking building in the middle of the photo.
See the yellow cranes?
Honestly, we were unimpressed with the museum. Over-priced and underwhelming. However, here are some highlights:
Where it was built.
I am not sure if we are related, but his poor soul perished.
We headed back to the apartment and walked over to Ryan's for dinner.
I had a chicken boxty, a traditional dish. Chicken and bacon in a white wine sauce, wrapped in a leek and potato pancake.
The next day, we were off! Goodbye, Belfast. You're a beaut, but there is an underlying energy that isn't my cup of tea.
Ailsa Craig aka Paddy's Milestone, seen from the ferry.
Ready to jump into a new project!